The art of winemaking has always been a delicate balance between nature and human intervention. For centuries, the quality of wine was largely determined by the terroir — the unique combination of soil, climate, and grape variety. However, as extreme weather conditions increasingly challenge traditional viticulture, the role of science and technology in winemaking has become more prominent. A recent report on the 2024 vintage in Burgundy highlights this shift, suggesting that modern winemaking may now rely more on technical expertise than on the quality of the grapes themselves.
The Challenges of the 2024 Vintage
The 2024 vintage was marked by extreme weather conditions, including heatwaves, droughts, and unexpected frosts. These challenges led to significantly lower yields, forcing winemakers to adapt their techniques to salvage the harvest. Despite these difficulties, the wines produced are described as having remarkable concentration and aromatic richness, with robust reds and elegant whites. But achieving this quality required more than just good grapes—it demanded a deep understanding of chemistry and precise technical interventions.
The Rise of the “Technician’s Vintage”
The report emphasizes that 2024 was a “technician’s vintage,” meaning that winemakers had to rely heavily on their technical skills to navigate the uneven ripening of grapes and other issues. For the red wines, gentle extraction methods like ‘’remontage’’ (pumping over) were used to handle the fragile grape material. For the whites, winemakers performed meticulous ‘’débourbage’’ (racking) to avoid any aromatic deviations caused by mildew and powdery mildew—a process requiring surgical precision.
These techniques are not just about tradition or intuition; they are rooted in chemistry. Understanding the chemical composition of the grapes, the impact of fermentation, and the role of oxygen in aging is now essential for producing high-quality wine. In many ways, the winemaker has become as much a chemist as an artist.
The Role of Science in Modern Winemaking
The increasing reliance on science in winemaking is not necessarily a bad thing. In fact, it has allowed winemakers to overcome challenges that would have been insurmountable in the past. For example, it seems weather patterns being more unpredictable, lead to uneven ripening and increased disease pressure. By using advanced techniques and tools, winemakers can adapt to these changes and still produce exceptional wines.
However, this shift raises an important question: Are we losing the essence of terroir in the process? If winemaking becomes more about chemistry and less about the natural qualities of the grapes, does the wine still reflect its origin? While some purists may argue that technology detracts from the authenticity of wine, others see it as a necessary evolution in an industry facing unprecedented challenges.
The Future of Winemaking: A Balance Between Tradition and Innovation
The 2024 vintage in Burgundy serves as a reminder that winemaking is no longer just about cultivating perfect grapes—it’s about understanding how to work with what nature provides, even in difficult conditions. While the role of chemistry and technology will continue to grow, the best winemakers will always strive to balance innovation with respect for tradition and terroir.
As the wines of 2024 continue to age, their true character will be revealed during the ‘’élevage’’ (aging) process. This stage, too, will require a blend of artistry and scientific knowledge. In the end, the most successful wines will be those that harmonize the natural qualities of the grapes with the skillful interventions of the winemaker.
So, is winemaking now more about chemistry than grapes? Perhaps it’s both. In a world where apparently climate and nature are increasingly unpredictable, the future of wine may depend on the ability to marry the old with the new—honouring the grapes while embracing the science that allows them to shine.
What are your thoughts? Is the rise of technical winemaking a necessary evolution, or does it risk losing the soul of wine? Let us know in the comments!